24 Hours in New York City

Now let’s be honest – very few of us are ever likely to spend “just” 24 hours in the Big Apple.  New York City is the sixth most visited city in the world today, with around $18.5 billion added annually by us tourists.  Most people either crave another chance to get a slice of the city that never sleeps or have it on their bucket list of places to visit.  With careful planning you can cram a lot into just 24 hours – after all sleep is so over rated isn’t it?

The question is where to start? Let’s assume you’ve negotiated the immigration process at whatever airport you arrive at and have chosen the most appropriate ground transportation option for your traveling party and budget – there is little point in offers any advice here apart from always use the official options.  It is incredibly sensible to look at what events are in the city and whether there are any cheap tickets –www.stubhub.com is an excellent resource for any gigs and sporting events such as the baseball where you can pick up last (and I mean last) minute tickets for some events for a dollar.

New York has lots of things to do that are free.  The Staten Island Ferry arguably offers some of the best views of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty 24 hours a day and is completely free, whilst the 9/11 Memorial Site is now fully open and you can look in awe at the size of the reflecting pools where the Twin Towers once stood.  Central Park is a beautiful place to wander in the summer whilst the area around Lower Manhattan is littered with historic buildings which can be entered free of charge such as the Federal Reserve Bank (you need to reserve a spot in advance to see the Gold Reserves where half a million gold bars are kept for safe-keeping) or Hook and Ladder on North Moore Street, a working fire station but used as the location for the filming of Ghostbusters.  If you are lucky you may also see Lindsey Lohan stagger home across the street.  If you are feeling energetic then a perfect way to spend a morning is to walk The High Line, a reclaimed railway line that through the West Side and has art galleries, restaurants and bars along its 1.45 mile route.  Alternatively head across the walkway on Brooklyn Bridge for some decent views of the city’s skyline.

There are numerous options to get a birds-eye view of the city these days.  The Rock, aka the Rockerfeller Center is in mid-town at 49th Street and the viewing platform here is often less busy that the Empire State Building on 5th Avenue although is open longer.  The new spot in town to see and be seen is undoubtably the 1,776ft, the fourth tallest building in the world and the biggest in the Western Hemipshere, One World Trade Center.  Be prepared to queue if you want to ride up to the 102nd floor to get some outstanding views of the city and beyond.  Tickets can be booked online from $32 for Adults. For a less energetic way to see the city, hop on one of the helicopter tours that leave from the piers on the East and West sides of Manhattan.

If the city gets too much then head across to the picturesque town of Hoboken in New Jersey either by a 10 minute ferry ride from lower Manhattan or on the PATH train.  The way of life here is more relaxed, the restaurants and bar not as busy and the views across the Hudson to New York are stunning.  The Main Street here is where you will find the original Cake Boss shop too.

There are thousands of places to eat and drink in the city, which is often best explored without recommendations.  However, a couple of our favourites are:-

  • Chinese Soup Noodle Dumplings – Joe Shanghai on Pell Street – expect to queue around the block for these delicious treats.
  • Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich – Charly’s Diner on Trinity Place at the east end of Zuccoti Park is the place to go – cooked in front of your eyes.
  • Steak – There are dozens of decent steak houses in Manhattan but one of my favourites, if not the cheapest, is Bobby Vans on Broadway.
  • Tapas – Cafe Barca in Little Italy is a great spot – decent choice of dishes and cheap as chips
  • Fried Chicken – How about Fried Chicken served on Waffles?  Then you need Sweet Chick in Williamsburg.  Expect to queue for the privilage to eat here.
  • Breakfast – Why compromise?  Cafe Charlie opposite Grand Central Station, under the Park Avenue approach has the best breakfast in town.
  • Smoked meats – Route 66 Smokehouse in Stone Street, lower Manhattan is a great spot in the summer – in fact the whole of Stone Street is a brilliant place to hang out when the sun is setting with outdoor seating and bars such as the Becketts, The Growler and Bavaria Bierhaus.
  • Strange and wonderful things – Apparently in the top 10 bars in the whole of America, The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog is a strange one. A ground floor compact Irish Bar, with its own craft beers provides the foundations to two floors of booth seating for over 100 cocktails and some fantastic small portions of fusion food.  Get here early or you will be queuing for ages.

The list could go on and on.  Take our advice.  Ignore our advice.  Share our advice.  Damn it, just go and do New York your way – you wont regret it!


24 Hours in Barcelona

“Un sueño me envolvió
Tal vez estás aquí
Un instinto me guiaba”

The immortal lines of the song Barcelona, sung by Freddie Mercury and Montserrat Caballé never fails to inspire me to think about the glorious scenes of the 1992 Summer Olympics.  The images of the diving competition, with the competitors jumping high, silhouetted against the city down below was enough to inspire me to visit and whilst the city still has some major issues to address, with prior knowledge comes wisdom and a great 24 hours can be experienced time and time again.

Whether you are coming for the cuisine, the culture, the climate or the Camp Nou, Barcelona is a wonderful city less than two hours flight from the UK.  Most major airlines fly to Aeropuerto El Prat Llobregat, 7.5 miles down the coast from the city centre.  Metro line 9 as well as a train line run from the airport to the city centre on a regular basis.  There is also a bus that runs to Plaça Espanya.

The question really is where to start.  For those with a head for heights, the cable car that runs from Montjurïc to Mirador on the edge of the beaches and restaurants of Barcelonetta.  A return trip dangling precariously over the city centre is €12 (€8 single) and offers some amazing views.  Once you are in Montjurïc you have a whole host of places to visit.  The Olympic Stadium is free to enter and soak up some of the magic from the summer of 1992. There’s a small museum dedicated to the Olympics at the far end of the stadium.  Five minutes away from the entrance to the stadium is the amazing Fundació Joan Miró, the home of a significant number of works from one of the 20th century’s most influential artists.  Entry starts from €12.  Also on the road back down to Plaça Espanyol is the Poble Espanyol, a recreation of life in different areas of Spain complete with the architecture and food.  Admission is €12. If you head in this direction after nightfall then you be lucky to see the fountains in front of the Museo Nacional D’Art de Catalunya sing and dance.

One of the must-see sights in Europe let alone Barcelona is the Sagrada Familia, Antoni Gaudí’s masterpiece that started in 1882 and is due for completion in 2026 at the latest estimate.  It is a work of art and you can explore every nook and crevice, including the scarily tall towers.  Barcelona is Gaudí town and you can explore some of his other work close-by such as Casa Milà or La Pedrera with its roof terrace.

You don’t have to be a football fan to enjoy the majesty of the Camp Nou, the second most popular tourist attraction in the city.  Whilst tickets for most games are hard to come by (although it’s worth checking here 48 hours before a game just in case) you can visit the stadium on most days and take in a tour of the ground and the museum as well as the obligatory visit to the café and club shop to buy your FCB slippers.  Nearest metro stops are

La Rambla is seen by many as the heart of the city, following the line of an old river (rambla means riverbed not ramble as many people think).  At the bottom of the avenue is the Christoper Columbus monument which has a daily hidden entrance but is open to ascend and get some decent views of the surrounding area.  Keep heading seawards and eventually you’ll reach the the Aquarium (admission €18) which is a popular haunt for families.  Keep your wits about you on the lower part of La Rambla, the Gothic Quarter and the area near Parallel as this is where most petty crime occurs, something the city has been woefully neglectful in trying to clear up.

Just an hour south of the city centre by train is the seaside town of Salou where one of Europe’s biggest theme parks can be found.  Portaventura has a link with Universal and certainly has some decent thrill rides and will be joined by Ferrari Land in March 2017.  The park has its own train station and is certain worth a visit if city life gets too much.

The city is also home to Tapas, which as you’d expect can be as cheap or as expensive as you want.  Recommended venues to indulge include Tickets in Avenue del Paral-lel which is in one of the fifty best bars in the world.  El Vaso de Oro in Barcelonetta is one of the most popular on the beach front and is also famous for its beer whilst the fantastically named Tossa close to the Sagrada Familia on Carrer de Nàpols is underrated.

Looking for somewhere unusual to put your head down for the night?  Barcelona has hotels to accommodate every budget but there’s a few that stand out from the crowd and won’t break the bank.  Acta Mimic Hotel is full of light that can be adapted to your moods and is located a short walk from La Rambla.  Hotel Neri has all the feel of a luxury boutique hotel without the price tag and is located at the heart of the Gothic Quarter whilst the Silken Diagonal Hotel sits on the main shopping street (Diagonal) and superbly appointed rooms for almost pocket money prices (ok maybe a bit more).

For those who want to sample some craft beer whilst in town, and let’s face it, who doesn’t then head to either The Garage Beer Company in Carrer del Counsel de Cent which houses it’s own microbrewery or Abirrodero in Carrer de Vila i Vilà.  There hundreds of bars across the city but a couple of stand out venues due to their location and theme are The Manchester Bar, in homage to everything from, erm Manchester, which can be found in Carter de Milans whilst El Bosc de les Fades translated as ‘The Forest of Fairies’ whisks you away into a fairytale fantasy.  For a bar with a view head to the Grand Central Hotel where the Skybar offer an infinity pool and sunset views to die for.

Millions come to Barcelona each and every year and enjoy everything the city has to offer – why not be one of them?

24 Hours in Nuremberg

There’s few cities in Europe that have endured such a turbulent history than Nuremberg.  It’s name will always be associated with a dark chapter in the history of the world but today it is a city that doesn’t hide the painful past, seeking instead to be a prosperous cultural centre.  Home to just over half a million inhabitants, few people outside of Bavaria will know that the city was once the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire as it was seen as a convenient stopping off point for routes converging on the path to Italy and Rome.  Nothing like a bit of self-publicity to bring the crowds in.

Today, the city is a vibrant place, with the medieval heart painstakingly rebuilt after the Second World War with the huge market square that every Christmas hosts the famous Christkindlemarkt, one of the biggest and most traditional Christmas Markets in Europe which draws visitors from near and far.  Certainly one of the reasons for braving the freezing conditions to visit the city in the Winter time.  Here you will be able to experience one of the local delicacies, the Nürnberger Rostbratwurst.  These small, thin but delicious sausages are served five in a crusty roll with a dollop of mustard and can be found across the city when the market is on.

Nuremberg held great significance during the Nazi Germany era. Because of the city’s relevance to the Holy Roman Empire and its position in the centre of Germany, the Nazi Party chose the city to be the site of huge Nazi Party conventions — the Nuremberg rallies which were attended by hundreds of thousands in a show of supposed power.  The Zeppenlinfeld is still standing today and is worth visiting just to see the sheer size of the site.  It is located next to FCN’s stadium, Stadion Nürnberg which in itself is worth a visit on a match day.   The nearest station to these and the following sites is Frankenstadion Sonderbahnsteig on the S-Bahn line from the city centre.

Whilst it may have the longest name of any tourist attraction in the world, the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelaende is one museum that above all else tries to explain the rise of the Nazi Party and what happened during the Second World War.  It’s hard hitting but absolutely fascinating.  Admission is just €5.  The museum is housed in the Kongresshalle, which was an impressive building built by the Nazi’s on the edge of Großer Dutzendtreich, which today is a popular boating lake.  It was to seat 50,000 but was abandoned during the war.  Another site not too far away was to be the Deutsches Stadion (“German Stadium”), designed by Albert Speer and would hold an astonishing 400,000. Its construction began in September 1937, and was slated for completion in 1943 but was demolished after the end of hostilities.  Today the Exhibition Centre (Messe) sits on the site where the stadium would have been.  To the north of Bayernstrasse is the Luitpoldhain, a very pleasant park but in the corner is the remains of the Hall of Honour.

After the war the city was chosen by the Allies to hold the trials of those accused of war crimes.  The Nuremberg Trials took place just outside the city walls in an annex to the Courts of Justice.  You can tour the site today to complete your journey through the recent history of the city.  Admission is €5.

Other spots well worth your attention include Nuremberg Castle, where the travellers on the way to and from Rome would stop and meet (as well as sleep and eat).  The Germanisches National Museum in the historic centre is also worth an hour of your time. However, the greatest pleasure of visiting Nuremberg is simply to wander into the corners of the city and enjoy the beauty of the buildings, especially those that line the River Pegnitz.

It is a relatively small city centre so most of the hotels are around the outside of the historic walls.  One that does sit in the centre is the Elch Hotel which is on Weinmarkt and dates back to 1342 but is full of modern cons.  The Hotel Drei Raben is also in the centre next to St Sebald Church and is perfect for the Christmas Market as it is right on the doorstep.  If you want to stay closer to the parade grounds and the football stadium then the Ramada on Muenchener Str is close by.

For beer lovers then you are in luck.  Not only has the city centre got some excellent bars but there are also a couple of breweries.  The Hausbrauerei Altstadthof in Bergstraße 19-21 has been brewing some outstanding beer for over thirty years whilst the Barfüßer is highly recommended and again is close to the Hauptmarkt.  The highest rated bar in the city is Mr Kennedy in Hintere Sterngasse 29 which has dozens of beers on offer.

Apart from sausages, which can be grabbed all over the city, such as the Bratwursthausie (the sausage house) which is in Rathausplatz.  Restaurant Burgwachter is a traditional German restaurant offering all the family favourites in Am Helberg whilst Alm is located a few doors away from the Hausbrauerei and is famed for its traditional atmosphere and cuisine.

Albrecht Dürer Flughafen is located around 3 miles north of the city centre and is linked via U-Bahn line U2 with a journey time of around 15 minutes.  A single ticket is €3.  Only a few UK-based airlines fly to the city (Ryanair are currently the only ones) so many will fly into Munich instead then head north on the new fast train line.  As you walk into the historic centre, pop into the Tourist Information Centre on Königstrasse to get your bearings.

I will wager a pint that once you’ve been to Nuremberg you will want to return time and time again – it is a small city but has so much to offer whatever time of the year you visit.

24 Hours in Zurich

What ever the season or the weather there is never a bad time to visit Zürich.  Often mistaken as the capital of Switzerland, it is the largest city in the country and has an unenviable position in the heart of the Alps, meaning there is outstanding natural beauty in every direction.  Whilst you will need to ensure you have plenty of Francs when you arrive, there are things to do, eat, drink and sleep for all budgets.  And with a flight time of less than 90 minutes from most UK airports, it is a perfect 24 hour destination – in fact due to the size of the country, Zürich is within touching distance of all corners of the country as well as neighbouring Southern Germany, Austria, Italy, France and of course Liechtenstein.

For those arriving by air into Kloten Airport, around 8 miles north of the city centre and linked by a regular train service that runs from below the building opposite the terminal below the shops.  The ZürichCARD offers travel to/from airport and the city centre plus discounts on many places for CHF24 for 24 hours (CHF16 for 6-16 year olds) or CHF 48/32 for a 72 hour period.  Most major airlines operate at least one route from the UK to Zürich.  Most of the places you will visit in the city are walkable but if necessary there is a good network of trams that cover all points.  Most stops have very clear displays showing the routes and when the next service is due.

Just outside the main station is the National Museum on Museumstrasse, one of the most iconic buildings in the city and charting the history of the nation and the city as well as temporary exhibits.  Another interesting museum worth a visit is the Money Museum in Hadlaubstrasse that traces the history of one of Switzerland’s most important specialities – banking.  The No Show Museum is an art museum, devoted to nothing and its various manifestations throughout the history of art. It claims to be the first of its kind. Founded in 2013 by Swiss conceptual artist and curator Andreas Heusser, the museum’s collection today includes around 400 works and documents from over 120 international artists of the 20th and 21st centuriesUndoubtedly, the most interesting museum in the city (OK, so I am biased!) is the World Football Museum housed at FIFA’s HQ on Seestrasse where you can get up close and personal to the genuine (apparently) World Cup Trophy.  Talking of football, the two city rivals, FC Zürich and Grasshoppers share an intertwined history and a stadium, the stunning Stadion Letzigrund.

Some of the beauty of the city is simply the stunning location and some of the historic buildings around the city centre. The Old Town on the hill to the east of the main station is perfect for a couple of hours wandering, with plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, whilst the two churches of Grossmünster and Fraumünster dominate the skyline, the latter of which houses 5 large stained glass windows designed by artist Marc Chagall depicting a Christian story. Of course the lake comes alive in the summer, with boat trips heading out in all directions providing some of the best views of the city and the surrounding area.

The main shopping, should you decide to indulge (and we really mean indulging here) can be found in the Old Town around Zäringerstrasse and Banhofstrasse on the left bank of the Limmat.  There is also a shopping centre at SihlCity well served by tram line 5, 13 and 17 which also houses the Four Seasons Hotel and Arena Cinemas as well as a host of bars and resturaunts.

So where do you start with places to eat and drink?  Many will want to try (or retry) fondue and one of the most historic places to sample it is Le Dézaley, a 13th century restaurant on the edge of the Old Town.  One of the best, and most reasonable, places to eat is the Zeughauskeller on Paradeplatz which is reminiscent of a German beer hall and serves meat, potatoes and beer – oh and a foot long sausage.  Just around the corner from here is the Bauernschänke in Rindermarkt which is the place to go for a schnitzel.

Fancy a  drink?  Of course you do.  There’s a million and one bars you can try in the city centre but if you are spoilt for choice how about starting at Widder Bar in the hotel of the same name in Widdergasse which is famed for his huge range of single malt whiskey.  For a view with your drink head to the Jules Verne Panorama Bar on Uraniastrasse, located above the rooftops of the city.  The International Beer Bar is the home of craft beer in Zürich and can be found in Luisenstrasse and is well worth an hour or two.

There’s loads of places to lay your weary head in the city but don’t expect any bargains.  A decent three star hotel such as the Altstadt in Kirchgasse may still set you back a couple of hundred pounds, whilst the Ascot Hotel in Tesserinplatz is a favourite of the footballing community.  If you really (and I mean really) want a slice of Swiss humour then book a room at the cow-inspired Leoneck Swiss Hotel in Leonhardstrasse.

24 Hours in Guernsey

Fancy stepping back to a time when life had a more leisurely pace? Where people respect the countryside and where the sun shines a little bit more than in the Great Britain? Welcome to Guernsey, the second biggest Channel Island, sitting some 38 miles west of France and 100 miles south of the mainland of England.  The island, along with the small islands of Herm and Jethou, lies within the Common Travel Area of the British Isles and is not a member of the European Union, but has a special relationship with it, being treated as part of the European Community with access to the single market for the purposes of free trade in goods. Taken together with the separate jurisdictions of Alderney and Sark it forms the Bailiwick of Guernsey.

The main attraction on the island is the island itself.  There are some physical attractions such as Castle Cornet, occupying a strategic location at the edge of the harbour in St Peter Port which is good for a couple of hours, or the trio of museums – La Vallette Underground Military Museum, The German Occupation Museum and the German Underground Hospital Museum – that trace the occupation of the island in the Second World War, but many people will come in the warm months from April to September to enjoy the beautiful beaches (such as Vazon Bay or Shell Beach on nearby Herm).

If you are lucky then either the Football Club or Rugby Club, both of whom who play at Foote Lane around a mile from the town centre, will be at home, which is a decent afternoon’s entertainment.

For just a pound (even better that Guernsey has still retained the one pound note which ceased to be legal tender in March 1988 on the mainland) you can get a bus that tours the island to take in all of the popular sights on the island (all bus fares are £1 on the island for convenience).  The drivers are normally good at pointing out the locations of places of interest such as the ones above, but you may need to do your own investigations to find the four more unusual places of note below:-

  • The post box in Union Street in St Peter Port is the oldest cast-iron pillar-box still in use anywhere in the British Isles, and the only one on the island that isn’t blue.
  • The location of the world’s first underwater arrest, where Mr Kempthorne-Leigh was illegally harvesting ormers, a popular but protected mollusc, and was arrested by a scuba-diving police officer.
  • The sight, according to local folklore, where Guernsey was once invaded by a group of fairies, who were inappropriately excited by the beauty of the local women. This did not augur well with their husbands and partners. The bloody battle that ensued inspired the name of Rouge Rue in St Peter Port, which translates as “Red Road” and refers to the alleged spilt blood that flowed through the street.
  • The Hauteville House Museum, the very strange house that was home to Victor Hugo.
  • The Little Chapel, which is just as the name suggests, on the outskirts of St Peter Port.
  • The house of Martin Brady, the man with the slowest ever recorded human heart rate.

Virtually all visitors will arrive on the island via air, using the Island’s own airline, Aurigny, who fly daily from a number of UK airports including Gatwick and Stansted.  The route from Southampton Airport involves a scheduled 45 minute flight, meaning the plane is in the air for around 30 minutes, enough for even the most nervous flier.  A bus (number 95) makes the regular route to St Peter Port, taking around 20 minutes.  A cab will cost around £12.

As you would expect, Guernsey offers a wide range of accommodation for the night, with smaller Bed & Breakfast establishments opening up for the summer months.  The best hotels are the St Pierre Park Hotel, about 1.5 miles outside of St Peter Port and close to the Foote Lane Stadium, which also offers a decent restaurant (Victor Hugo Restaurant), health club and golf course, whilst the Old Government House in the centre of town is the island’s only 5-Star hotel. Other good places to stay include the Best Western Moores Central, on the High Street and just a two-minute walk to the sea front, whilst the Le Friquet Hotel is a perfect retreat outside of the bustle of St Peter Port.

In terms of suitable hostelries, as you would expect the majority of establishments in St Peter Port.  Stand out pubs, both in terms of location, friendliness and range of beers, include The Golden Lion in Market Street, Red Grill House in The Pollet and The Ship & Crown on the sea front.  In terms of decent places to eat, The Octopus which is a 20 minute walk out-of-town at Havelet Bay is great for seafood, The Boathouse has an unenviable location on the water’s edge, Da Nello is one of the best Italian’s in town and slightly further afield The Restaurant at Beaucette Marina has the location and the food.

One thing you can absolutely guarantee though is nobody ever leaves Guernsey saying they won’t be back.  It has so much warmth and beauty that it is the perfect destination, irrespective of the weather for 24 hours, albeit it isn’t quite a city.

24 Hours in Fort Lauderdale

Miami has the beat, Fort Lauderdale has the beach.  Few people will come to Florida’s 8th biggest city unless they are coming for the sun, sea and sunsets, rather passing through on the way down to Miami just 30 minutes to the south and onwards to The Keys.  But there’s enough here to keep even the most restless tourist occupied for 24 hours.

For starters there’s Sawgrass Mill, America’s biggest outlet centre with over 300 stores, located on the edge of the Everglades National Park, and rivals some of the theme parks in Florida for daily footfall.  Less busy but still impressive is the Aventura Mall that sits on the borders between the city limits of Fort Lauderdale and Miami. No good can come out of visiting either as the owner of a joint bank account or credit card.  Both really require a car to access although Aventura has the hub of a number of local bus routes, such as line 4 that runs up Ocean Drive to Dania Beach.

To get a different view of some of the amazing properties that sit on the river then use the informative Water Taxi service that runs the whole length of Hollywood and the waterways of Dania and beyond. There is a boardwalk that runs for a couple miles from South Hollywood allowing the perfect cycling conditions, with hire points at regular intervals.

You’d be mad not to take advantage of being so close to the Everglades and the best way to see them is by airboat.  Guides will point out alligators, manatees and all sorts of strange creatures at the Sawgrass Recreation Park.  Florida is one of the few states where gambling is legal and so many people will head to Gulfstream Park for some betting action whether that’s on horse racing or on the casino tables.

Take your pick from all of the major chain hotels either in the city centre or Hollywood Beach. You will pay a premium for a room with a view in somewhere such as The Diplomat on Ocean Drive which has a 33rd floor bar and an amazing swimming pool as well as a very good restaurant.  A cheaper option, The Crown Plaza 5 minutes south has an infinity pool which offers some superb sunset views from the poolside bar.

Hyde Beach Kitchen, just off  is a seriously good seafood restaurant and cocktail bar with a local right on the beach that will earn anyone trying to impress their partner significant brownie points, whilst further up South Ocean Drive is the highly recommended GG’s Waterfront Grill and Billy’s Stone Crab Shack which not only offers superb stone crab, unsurprisingly, as well as superb sunset views.  If you want to sample some of the best craft beers in the area then Hollywood Ales brews on the beach at the junction of Polk Street and North Surf Street, which also does some decent food, whilst a minute’s walk away is the always busy Taco Beach Shack.  You’ll find the excellent Hollywood Pale Ale in many bars and restaurants up and down Ocean Drive.

24 Hours in Bilbao

Name a place in Europe where you can buy you a three course meal, a glass of superb red wine, a bottle of water and you still get some change from €20? There’s very few places I’d wager unless you have somehow managed to get Doc Brown’s DeLorean working again.  But just sometimes the world surprises you and that’s exactly what Bilbao does.  The meal deal isn’t in some backstreet rundown café either – its in a 4 star hotel where you can eat with a view of one of Europe’s most modern stadiums or one of Europe’s most ambitious and most successful dockside regeneration programmes,  step forward the restaurant El Buxto in the Hotel Hesperia Zubialde, which not only has this excellent offer but slap bang next to Bilbao’s latest architectural wonder, Estadio San Mamés.

First up – don’t come to Bilbao and expect the city to entertain you.  Sure, there are a few attractions but to get the most out of this gem of a city you need to walk like a local, eat like a local and drink like a local.  Be prepared to understand the etiquette of Pintxo and the fanaticism of Athletic Club and you will get along famously.

Twenty years ago the city was a bit of a mess.  The riverside was still scarred by years of neglect and the city was just coming to terms with the 21st century.  And then along came Frank Gehry with his vision for an artistic masterpiece that would change the future of the city forever.  The opening of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997 was the defibrillator that the region needed. Over €500 million was generated for the region in just a few years as over 4 million tourists visited the museum. The regional council estimated that the money visitors spent on hotels, restaurants, shops and transport allowed it to collect €100 million in taxes, which more than paid for the building cost. In economic theory terms, the Return on Investment was bat-shit crazy. A cameo role in the 1999 James Bond film “The World is not Enough” didn’t harm visitor numbers either.

Most visitors come to Bilbao to experience the Guggenheim Museum and it is certainly as stunning inside as it is from the outside.  Admission is €10 plus any additional charge for the temporary exhibitions.  The museum has a prime location on the banks of the river, opposite the very upmarket Duesto district with its fine riverside mansions.  The parkland running adjacent to the museum has now been redeveloped, including a new shopping centre, the Zubiarte plus La grúa Carola (the red crane) which forms part of the Maritime Museum whilst closer to the Guggenheim is another excellent art museum, the Museo de Bellas Artes be Bilbao in Euskadi Plaza.

Further down the river towards the mouth of the Biscay is the Vizcaya Bridge, built to connect the two banks and is today the world’s oldest transporter bridge, having been built in 1893 after being designed by Alberto Palacio, one of Gustave Eiffel’s disciples.  45 metres tall and 120 metres long, the bridge is still in operation today, transporting vehicles and passengers across every couple of minutes on a cradle, suspended by 40 metres of cable.  You can cross the bridge by the walkway, 40 metres above the river if you don’t have a fear of heights for €7, which also includes a trip on the vehicle transporter.  It is best to approach the bridge from Areeta metro stop as that side is open during all seasons whilst the Portugalete side is only open March to October.

The centre of the city is Plaza Moyua and it is from here that you can experience the Basque art of the Txikiteo – a Basque bar crawl that essentially involved hopping from bar to bar to sample each one’s speciality dishes, or pintxos.  The rules of the txikiteo, where the best pintxos could be found and even that there was an annual competition for the best one in the city (the Muestra de Bares de Pintxos if you really wanted to know) change from week to week but for the visitor it is easier just to go with the flow.  A list of the finalists each year can be found here.

If you head to Madrid or Barcelona you can hop from bar to bar and experience tapas. You will get a small plate of whatever the bar has made free of charge with your drink. In the Basque region, a pintxo costs extra. The pintxo started life modestly, as a piece of tortilla or ham on bread, and must be consumed standing up, in a maximum of two mouthfuls. The Guggenheim effect is the terms given to explain the explosive growth in popularity in txikiteoing and pintxos in general as a result of the opening of the museum. My personal favourite is Singular, a craft brewing inspired bar in Lersundi Kalea which not only has 6 craft beers on tap but an excellent selection of Pintxo in a very relaxed atmosphere.

The city has some decent hotels including the Hotel Abando in Colon de Larreategui and the amazing building that is the Palacio de Oriol in Avenida Cristobal Murrieta.  If you want to really splash the cash then head to the Hotel Carlton on Plaza Federico Moyua 2 or the Gran Hotel Domine in Alameda de Mazarredo with its amazing atrium and slap-bang opposite the Guggenheim.  Neither come cheap but what you spend on a room for the night you will undoubtedly save in food and drink.

If one building sums up the city then it is the new home of Athletic Club Bilbao, the San Mamés stadium, located just 10 minutes walk from Plaza Moyua.  The building is stunning and won the 2015 World Sports Building of the Year award.  Tickets can be purchased at the ground and if the team aren’t at home then you can also tour the stadium.

The Airport itself is a wonderful piece of architecture, designed by Santiago Calatrava whose latest creation, the Occulus, is the hottest new building in Lower Manhattan. Located 6 miles outside of the city centre, in the Loiu valley, it is linked by the BizkaBus (number 3247) which runs every half an hour to Plaza Moyà and the Bus Terminal at San Mamés and costs €1.45 each way with a journey time of around 25 minutes.  Once in the city if you want to make use of the Sir Norman Foster designed metro (such as a trip up to the port or the Transporter Bridge) then buy a day ticket for €4.30.  Within an hour you can also reach the fantastic resort of San Sebastian, famed for having more Michelin stars per capita than anywhere else in the world and the amazing crescent beach, by bus or train, whilst an hour to the west is another resort town, Santander.  To the south you can find Pamplona, famed for its annual Bull Run.